All news: 2024

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 May 11th. Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Yesterday, half of the camp went down. It was a fairly large Indian expedition (about 10 participants and the same number of Sherpas). They spent a month and a half on the mountain and after another unsuccessful attempt to hang the ropes (on May 8-9, the national team tried to do this, but only reached 7,400), they decided to curtail the expedition.

As a result, our team of 6 people remained at Dhaulagiri, and another international team of 7 people.

As of yesterday morning, the input data was as follows

  In fact, there are no fixed ropes. Those that the team re-(!) hung up to 7,400 a day ago are already under the snow. It needs to be re-hung, and from C1 - there are many cracks opened.

  The condition of the site from C2 to C3 is very avalanche-prone.

  The ropes are all used up, we need to bring new ones from Kathmandu.

  And the main thing is the weather. Snowfall is expected daily for the next 8-9 days…

After weighing all this, we decided to wind down. The members of the international team said they were waiting for our decision (they have almost no Sherpas for making the route). And they were very happy when they found out that we were winding down. They said that everything was correct. By the way, there are very interesting characters in the national team. Anna Tybor from Poland, who planned to ski down from the top of Dhaulagiri.  Arjun is a Hindu who became the youngest climber to descend Lhotse and Everest in 2010. He is making a 14X8000 project. He says that he has agreed on the possibility of entering Pakistan, and this is the main problem for Hindus. He hopes to become the first Indian to climb all 14 eight-tiers. Aiden is a climber from Turkey who has climbed 10 out of 14. This is his third time on Dhaulagiri. And some more interesting characters. We've become friends here.

After making a difficult decision, we had a farewell dinner.

We've been waiting for a helicopter to fly to Pokhara all morning.   By 13.00 he almost reached us, then everything was covered with clouds and heavy snow began to fall.

We hope to leave tomorrow morning now… Some participants have ideas to try to rush to Kangchenjunga and Lhotse. But first we need to get to Kathmandu.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

The Everest-24 team, led by Alexander Abramov, finished their vacation in Namche Bazaar.

On May 12th, we all fly to the Everest Base Camp. On May 13th, we have rest and preparation. On May 14th we will start at Camp 2. On May 15th - Camp 3. On May 16th - Camp 4 on the South Col and on the night of May 16th to 17th we go out to storm Everest. Wish us good luck!

Valery Babanov and Eduard Kubatov also rested here in Namche Bazaar. Valera plans Everest without additional oxygen, Eduard – Lhotse, also without additional oxygen.

Alla Mishina conveyed the following information.

Kangchenjunga, 05/11/2024.  Message from Sergey Seliverstov:

"Yesterday at 19.30 everyone went out to storm the summit. We turned around from 7700m - a lot of snow, avalanche danger. We went down to the Base Camp".

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 8000 Club, reports from the Everest base camp:

 Very big greetings from Everest Base Camp, from the 8000 Club team!  Today is the deadline for preparation. Everything is in the collection, everything is thought out to the smallest detail. There is an acquaintance with the Sherpas, a discussion of the movement schedule, overnight stays, and most importantly, this is the day of the assault. All participants are in a good mood and ready to start. Wait for news from the vastness of Mount Everest!

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the Office Climbers group! Yesterday we had an assault day.  The weather was not very pleasant, unfortunately, not every member was at the top. But each participant reached his own peak, and everyone was satisfied.

Evgeny Fedyunin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Hello everyone On May 10th, the group "To the Summit" of the 7 Summits Club made an ascent on the summit of West Elbrus 5642m! The weather was not good at all and frayed my nerves.  In conditions of minimal visibility, we achieved our goal and safely (though not quickly) descended to the refuge.  And then to the hotel!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Yesterday, on May 9, our team was able to fly from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar with great difficulty in very bad weather. The flight was extreme. In conditions of very poor visibility, we flew very low. We are currently vacationing in Namche. Bars, massages, food and sleep.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region! Today our Super group has climbed the highest mountain in our country, as well as the highest in Europe Elbrus (5642m). The weather didn't favor us, but we were able to do it.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 8000 Club, reports from the Everest base camp:

Good afternoon! Today, the 8000 Club team went up to the helipad from morning to early, after a rest, hoping to fly to the base camp. At first, there was no light and no hint that we would get to the base camp today. But less than an hour later, our yellow helicopter loomed in the sky. And within an hour, the whole group was delivered to the Base Camp. Here, as usual, we were warmly and well received, and accordingly, we were well fed. Then we held another class on the use of oxygen equipment. Each participant independently tried this wonderful device on himself. Tomorrow we have a day of preparation and training for entering the high-altitude area.  And on the night of May 12th, we go out to storm. All feel good. Wish us an easy and safe road, and an easy descent to the base camp, and then home!

Nepal, Base Camp Everest - Lukla - Kathmandu

Hello everyone from cool Kathmandu! Yes, it's not hot in Kathmandu right now either, just like in the Everest base camp, as well as in Moscow!

Today was a busy day, it's also a holiday on May 9th.

The trekker team spent their reserve day at the Everest Base, watching the chess "tournament of the century" and getting to know the life of Everest expeditions closer and deeper.

But, there are no reserve days left, we need to get out to civilization, and the weather is so-so. We decided not to take any chances and go out early in the morning towards Feriche, where there are more chances to catch the summer weather. A little bit of hassle, expectations and our team, as well as the chess team, were in Kathmandu in the evening, by the pool in Hyatt. Although there was no doubt about it.

In the evening, there was a festive farewell dinner at the delicious La Sherpa restaurant, where the participants were awarded and many warm words were said.

It's nice to realize that in such a short period the team has rallied, received a lot of unforgettable (in a good way) impressions and the participants take with them only bright and positive memories.

Have a good trip home and see you again!

Yours are Valery Myasoedov, Andrey Berezin, Anastasia Kuznetsova

Nepal / Kathmandu 2024.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from the members of the expedition from BС Dhaulagiri! Today we had a double holiday - Victory Day and the Birthday of Igor Smirnov, a member of the expedition.

Our morning started with the song "Victory Day" and active holiday exercises.

At breakfast, we congratulated Igor with a cake, deciding that we would arrange a more serious celebration later in the evening. But then the participants of the neighboring expedition came to our dining room with congratulations and gifts for Igor. So we opened the champagne and started celebrating all at once. Then the male half of our exp went for a walk, and Ira and I had a bath day.

Before lunch, the fix-ropes team came down. They barely managed to climb from C2 to C3 in a strong wind and snowfall in 14 hours (usually 5-7 hours). Avalanches swept by several times, one even slightly touched them. At night, they even made an attempt to climb above Camp 3, but quickly turned around due to the avalanche-prone situation and bad weather.

Besides us, there is only one more expedition here near Dhaulagiri - a team of Indians with Pioneer company. But after these events, they decided to curtail the expedition.

In general, we are still looking at forecasts - but there will be snowfall in the next 8-10 days. Tomorrow we will gather a consultation and decide how to live on.

The weather in BC is average - either snowfall or wind. But sometimes the sun comes through. All the participants of our expedition are cheerful and hope for the best.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of Mount Lobuche!  We had no communication while we were in the assault camp. In the morning, we left the village of Lobuche and went up to the assault camp in three hours. The weather turned bad there, and we held training sessions in a tent under the snow! We rested before going out. At midnight we had breakfast and went up. Due to the snowfall, the road was very slippery and heavy. By dawn it got better, we went to the beginning of the ropes and ice. We put on the crampons and started climbing the ropes. As a result, we climbed to the top in 9 hours. Then we had a long descent to the Lobuche Lodge. We didn't get there until 9 p.m. And now we have gone down to Lukla by helicopter and are waiting for a flight to Kathmandu.

Hello everyone from Papua! From a completely unnamed, but very good group, and your guides Boris Egorov and Olga Rumyantseva. Yesterday, our group in full force made an ascent on the highest point of Papua New Guinea, Mount Wilhelm.

Two days before, after a short move, we found ourselves in a paradise called Betty's Lodge, where we spent half a day among flowers, visited a trout farm and tasted fresh fish. The next day we moved to the base camp, making a trek through the picturesque jungle. This beautiful region pleased us not only with the already familiar views of jungles and swamps, but also with the most beautiful powerful waterfalls and mountain lakes, in which the most cheerful adventurers swam both before and after the ascent.

The ascent itself turned out to be quite a physically hard event with elements of rock climbing and acrobatics. It was very difficult, but we all coped. Such an adventure will be remembered by everyone for a long time.

In the evening we returned to our beautiful lodge. Today our group returns to Mount Hagen, from where our members will fly home tomorrow.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Today, the first ever chess tournament was held at the Everest base camp – Ever Chess. Chess players from Russia and Nepal took part in it. Grandmaster and mountaineer Alexander Ryazantsev won.

 Official information about the Russian Chess Federation tournament

The results of the Ever-Chess tournament have been summed up.

According to the results of the additional games, grandmaster Alexander Ryazantsev became the winner of the tournament, beating Yuri Kalinichenko by only half a point. Vladimir Shumilin won the bronze medal.

The prize fund was also divided among themselves in descending order: Andrey Minkov, Yulia Kholodnova, Andrey Fedorov, Peter Minkov, Alexander Abramov, German Koshelev, Gennady Dutov.

Ever-Chess was the first tournament that was successfully held at the highest point in the world (5360 meters, Everest Base Camp).

The tournament was held in a friendly and fun atmosphere. Among the spectators were citizens of Japan, Russia, the USA and Nepal.

The tournament was organized by the 7 Summits Club with the support of the Russian Chess Federation.

 In uncertain weather conditions, three groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Alexander Dorojukov, Dmitry Semenov and Evgeny Fedyunin climbed the Pastukhov Rocks to heights of 4800-4900. Thus, they completed the acclimatization cycle. Participants and guides will rest for one day and then try to climb  the summit of Mount Elbrus.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from BC Dhaulagiri from our cheerful team!

Today we had a day of preparation for the summit assault. In the morning, we did exercises with elements of Turkish breathing exercises, which was conducted by our Turkish friend from the neighboring expedition. After breakfast, high-altitude meals were distributed by day and personal belongings were collected.

But by lunchtime, the advance fix-ropes team got in touch. They reported that the weather is bad (snow and wind) and the condition of the route is very difficult - deep dry snow. In 12 hours they did not manage to get from C2 to C3…

In such a situation, it was decided to postpone our exit for a few days. According to the forecast, the nearest window is probably May 14-15.

But we were very pleased with the video message from our friends from Transglobal Car. They even dedicated poems to us! So we try not to lose heart and wait for the weather to improve.

The weather was changeable today, there was no significant precipitation. But most of the time the groups were in a fog.  Our guides Alexander Dorojukov, Dmitry Semenov and Evgeny Fedyunin worked with groups.  All three groups ascended to the area of the Refuge Eleven, to a height of 4100. There is a lot of snow on the slopes, the training turned out great.  Ascent-descent, movement on fixed ropes, self-arrest.  All three groups are relaxing now at the National Park Refuge.

Official publication on the website of the Russian Chess Federation:

In total, from the city of Lukla to the base camp, the chess players had to overcome 50 kilometers and climb from a height of 2,860 meters to a height of 5,364 meters during seven days of the hike.

Tomorrow, from 8:15 Moscow time and 11:00 Nepal time, the chess tournament starts at the highest natural altitude.

The chess players will have to play 9 games according to the Swiss system with a control of 10’+3”.

Recall that the competition will be held at the highest altitude, not counting the chess games played in space. The tournament will feature a prize pool of 7 million rubles.

The games will be broadcast on the channel of the Russian Chess Federation.

This week, three groups of the 7 Summits Club will try to climb to the top of Mount Elbrus. Last week, not all participants succeeded, the weather on the day of the ascent was quite bad. Now we hope for its improvement. However, the first day was rather stormy. Our guides Alexander Dorojukov, Dmitry Semenov and Evgeny Fedyunin work with groups. On the first day, they all climbed the slopes of Mount Cheget to the Ai cafe (2700m). In the afternoon, the participants were preparing for tomorrow's ascent to the slopes of Elbrus. At the rental point of the 7 Summits Club, they were able to take the missing equipment.

Hello everyone! Koniyaki group is in touch! Tonight, part of the bravest group conquered the panoramic peak of Kala Patthar. After that, our friendly team went down to the village of Lobuche, where it was time for us to split up.

The trekkers went down Dingboche, and a group of climbers to the summit of Lobuche East stayed in the village of Lobuche.  They wanted to hold training classes, but it started snowing heavily and they decided to postpone it. Tomorrow, the climbing team ascends to the Lobuche base camp and there will be no contact with them for several days.