7 Summits Club company news

Message from the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov:

Alexander Abramov with a team of 10 people is flying to Pakistan.  The purpose of the trip: exploration of routes in Pakistan with the aim of conducting an expedition to Broad Peak and K2 next summer.  The team will visit the Nanga Parbat Base Camp, cross the Deosai Plateau (Pakistani Tibet) and ascend to the highest point of the plateau, Mount Shantun (5400m).

And like the cherry on the cake, we want to complete the program by climbing to the summit of Khosar Gang (6200m) located near Skardu, already in Karakorum.

The ascent is organized by the company 8000.guide together with the company the 7summits.club.

Sergey Larin, the head of the expedition to Manaslu reports from Nepal:

News of the project 8000.guide. Today, on 21.09, our team went down to the base camp. We were ready to climb. We headed up with this thought and preparation. Our acclimatization was not quite final, but the planned amount of oxygen allowed us to make the ascent. However, the weather has spoken its word!  The ropes fixed by the Nims team to the top became useless under a meter-thick layer of snow. And the assault camp on the 7400 is not installed and equipped. We spent the night at 6800, this is Camp 3. The team does not lose hope, despite the fact that it will most likely have to reschedule tickets. By the way, on the 17th day we found out that our expedition is international. Yuri Lukyanov is a representative of Kazakhstan. It's a rest now. Another confirmation that patience is the main thing in high-altitude mountaineering. By the way, there are also traffic jams on Manaslu.

News from the Manaslu expedition led by Sergey Larin.  Project guide.8000 (14 eight-thousandths). Today our expedition in full force reached the high-altitude camp 3 (7000 m). All participants feel well. Tomorrow, according to the plan, the team will move to Camp 4 (7400m) and on the same night they will start for the final summit push. That is, the assault on the summit is planned for the morning of September 22. Wish good luck to our team!

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "Mad Chanterelles ". Having made an attempt to climb on the reserve day, we only reached the Saddle. Therefore, it was decided to try to climb the Western Peak on Sunday. The weather turned out to be perfect today. And we got up at dawn on the summit and enjoyed the views of the surrounding area.

Valery Myasoedov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

Greetings from Tehran! The final group of the 2022 season was held at a high level.  Having made the ascent in 6 hours and 20 minutes to the top of Damavand, we put not a dot, but an exclamation mark for the whole season as a whole! Oksana and Andrey, having shown excellent physical fitness during acclimatization rotation, and on the summit day, showed themselves worthily. The weather was not as comfortable as in summer.  September is the autumn season with strong cold winds, the more deserved and desired was the peak. Well done!

Yes, the 2022 season on Damavand turned out well for the 7 Summits Club. For the first time, during the whole season, from June to September, we formed several groups every month, and it is important to note that we ensured 100% ascent of all participants to the top. We hope that the next season will be just as eventful and successful! Damavand is waiting for you!

Sergey Larin, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu reports from Nepal:

News of the project 8000.guide.  Our plans have changed once again due to the change in the forecast and the actual weather.  Today, 17.09, we held training with oxygen equipment. We're going up tomorrow after all. There will be no communication for several days.

 Our friend Tashi Sherpa sent photos and videos from the Manaslu base camp, where in total there is also a section of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Sergey Larin. On the eve of the traditional puja ceremony took place under the incessant rain and the climbers received a blessing for a successful ascent and descent.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. Today is the final day of acclimatization. We went up to 4500m, to the bottom of the Pastukhov Rocks. Strong wind and fresh snow made our ascent more difficult, but we coped with the task. Tomorrow we rest and prepare for the summit climb, as well as monitor the weather for the coming days.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition on Manaslu, from Nepal:

News of the program 8000.guide.

13.09. Day of rest at the base camp. Puja, as it turned out, is scheduled for 15. 09. And this makes adjustments to our plans. Now we can start further acclimatization only on September 16. Going out without puja is not good for karma. We decided not to spoil karma.

14.09. We held ice classes in the rain. We are already used to rain and fog.

Simone Moro flew into the base camp, but he can't fly down yet because of the weather.

He participated in the rescue work here. In difficult conditions, he removed a climber from Dubai from the route, who became ill at 6400.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The program of acclimatization and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus of a new group has begun.  Today we climbed to a height of 2700 meters on the slope of Mount Cheget.  The path passed along a forest path, which then turned into a zone of alpine meadows.  In the afternoon, we rented the necessary equipment and prepared for the ascent to the refuge National Park.

News of the Project 8000.guide.

10.09.  A day of rest at the base camp.

11.09. Acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 (5650m) with overnight stay. The base camp stretches along the slope for 150m, we are at an altitude of 4860m at the very beginning of the camp. There is a wet corner here, there is less precipitation below and above, but there is no better place for a camp. It rains every day, sometimes turning into sleet, most of the time we are in a cloud. But our tents are adapted to this climate, completely waterproof, insulated, with beds and mattresses.

12.09. All participants went down to the base after acclimatization rotation. It's all good. Everyone tolerates high altitude well.  We had shower and rest.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition on Manaslu, from Nepal:

News 7 Project 8000.guide. Since the Internet was turned off for several days due to clouds, news has accumulated, which I am sending now. 

7.09. Acclimatization rotation from the loggia in Samagaon to the lake, and then to the village of Samdu.

8.09. Acclimatization rotation to the monastery and the place where the hermits live at 4100m. A unique, little-visited place.

9.09. Move to the base camp at 4800m. All participants feel well. So far, everything is going according to plan, according to the program. Our tents are located first at the entrance to the base camp.

 A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The wind vs. the group "Shine Sparkle". Another cyclone brought with it a strong wind, gusts reached 60 km/h during the ascent to the top.  But at the summit of Elbrus, the wind died down, and we were able to enjoy the beauty of the panorama of the Main Caucasian Ridge.  Guides Berezin&Dorojukov.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

The final day of the program of the group "Recording in the library" turned out to be eventful. Early breakfast and descent to the Mosque, transfer to the hotel in Tehran, a long-awaited shower and a soft bed. After a short rest, a visit to the Tajrish Bazaar, but we arrived almost on time for the festive dinner and the awarding ceremony. The new restaurant "Narajestan", the choice of our Iranian partners corresponded to the solemnity of the moment. This is a modern and stylish restaurant, with excellent cuisine.  A traditional award ceremony was held here, the participants received diplomas and medals from the 7 Summits Club and also from Iranian partners. There were words of gratitude to the Iranian guides, who once again confirmed their high level. 

The day before, on September 6, the group climbed to the top of Damavand: 8 participants and 3 guides, 2 Iranian and  the 7 Summits Club guide. A good pace, excellent, almost windless weather, allowed us to spend more than an hour at the top. And incredible events were developing at the top! Mikhail Panov, our record holder in bungee jumping, set another achievement, stood for more than 10 minutes with bare feet on nails at the top, hardly anyone had done it before him. The achievement was recorded on video. Then our Iranian guide Mahior came up with two participants, and congratulations to our beloved guide on his birthday began.  We knew about it in advance and prepared well, wrote congratulations on the poster in three languages.  We sang Happy birthday to him in three languages with a guitar, for this Timur specially brought the guitar to the top, gave him an army ushanka, arranged a real holiday for our friend. Timur then performed the best songs of his repertoire, there was no end from those who wanted to listen and take pictures with him.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region.  The group "Shine Sparkle " today made an acclimatization rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. In the Elbrus region, the weather is now changing from summer to winter. And we felt all the features of this transition for ourselves. Therefore, we put on warm thermal underwear and took warm down jackets with them, which they put on already above 4200. These things turned out to be not superfluous in the end.  Tomorrow we have a rest day and preparation for the Elbrus ascent according to the program. Guides Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Express news from Iran! Today, the group "Recording in the Library" in its entirety, 8 participants and 3 guides, made a successful ascent on the top of Damavand. Now everyone has gone down to Borgoh-e Sevvom, and tomorrow - to Tehran for the last day of the program.

Details tomorrow. Expect surprises, good ones, of course! 

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin reports from Nepal: 

News from the 14x8000 project team. Today, on September 6th, as planned, we flew by helicopter to the village of Samagaun, Moonshine according to Russian (3800m), to the starting point for the start of the ascent to Manaslu. The weather was  good for flying, we were lucky. Moonshine is not made here for some reason, but Ruslan vodka is sold. The Ruslan vodka bottling plant was built in Nepal under the USSR with the assistance of the Moscow Crystal Plant. We plan to spend three nights here for acclimatization.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region

News of the Elbrus region from the group "Shine Sparkle".  A large friendly company began to acclimatize and prepare for the ascent on Elbrus. In the plans of the training program, we have climbed to a height of 2700 m today. Autumn abruptly came into its own.  The heavy rain and the sharply falling air temperature reminded us that the first autumn month had already arrived. Tomorrow we are going to the refuge National Park, where we will continue to acclimatize. Guides of the group Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov.

 And we also celebrated Denis Dmitrov's birthday today.

The 7 Summits Club joins the congratulations!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

The fourth day of the program of the group "Recording in the library" on Demavend.  So to speak, we cross the equator... Leisurely packing and moving to the Mosque, a place also called Gusfand-Saro. On this day, it resembled a turbulent flow, numerous groups were going up and down, the approaching end of the season and good weather attract and motivate additionally. A traditional photo at the mosque and the ascent to Borgoh-e Sevvom, the only shelter on the mountain, also known as the assault camp, translated from Persian as the Third Camp, at an altitude of 4200 m. Why the Third One at once, and where the First and Second are, is a mystery... Delicious soup for a late lunch, and for dinner... stuffed chicken… How Narges-khanum, our chef manages to cook such dishes on the mountain, is the second mystery... Everyone was perplexed and delighted. Over dinner, we discussed the program of the next two days.  Tomorrow there will be a simple acclimatization rotation 300-400 m above the assault camp on the way to the summit and preparation for the ascent.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin reports from Nepal:  A new project “8000. Guide”. It begins with the expedition on Manaslu (8156m) and continues along the list, which, as you know, includes 14 items. The first participants have already arrived in Kathmandu. There are 5 people in the climbing group with me and one person with a permit to the base camp. The climbing permit has just been received. I signed the papers on 10 sheets. It seems that the monsoon has not completely left Nepal yet. Such weather is common for September. But the ascent on Manaslu is carried out at the end of September, Because, despite the abundance of precipitation, it is still warm at altitude and not such strong winds.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran from our group! The second day of the program and immediately a test of strength. Climbing Colon Bashtak, 4120 m, 700 meters of climb. It was hot, it was dusty, but the group in full under the guidance of our permanent Iranian guide Mahyor went to the top. A small, but still an achievement.  Our team of Iranian guides is the best on the mountain!

  In the photo from the top with us, it would seem, an outsider. In fact, this is Mehdi, our regular driver, a very friendly and caring person. He also goes to the mountains sometimes, has been to Damavand more than once. And here, too, he decided to join us on the ascent. That's the kind of team we have - guides, drivers, and cooks, all people in love with the mountains.

 We went down more cheerfully. We were waiting for a hotel with single accommodation, with hot water, after such a dust! On the way, we bought half a shop of local fruits - watermelons, peaches, figs, which became a wonderful dessert for a delicious and plentiful dinner at the hotel. We deserve it!...