Kommunizma Peak stands at the junction of the Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) and Pyotr Pervy (Peter the Great) Ranges in the north-west part of the Pamirs.
It was Ivan Dorofeev, a Russian military topographer, who did all the surveying of the central part of the Fedchenko Glacer together with the adjoining peaks (which remained unclimbed by then).
The exact coordinates and altitude of the highest one, 7495m, were confirmed only in 1929. In 1931 it was named after Stalin, in 1961 called Kommunizm and in 1999 – Somoni (Tajik).
There are dozens of climbing routes on the peak, of the highest grades (from 5A to 6B). The most popular, so not among the hardest, are two: Borodkina Route from the Valter Glacier (the northern side) and “Burevestnik” from the Fortambek Glacier (the western one).
And one of the hardest starts from the Belyaev Glacier and goes up the 2km high rock wall with the steepness over 80°
The easiest route is from the Bivachny Glacier.
When going to 7000m do not rely on your youth (in case you are young), or on your well-preserved health (if you are not in your first youth)! For several months do more or less systematic training, simple jogging is perfect for that. Despite the fact that the route is not technical, two factors, the unpredictable Pamirs’ weather and the altitude, can make the climb quite a challenge even for seasoned climbers. You should not regard it as just a “snow plod”. The success depends on your fitness, well planned acclimatization period, right set of gear, good guides and, last but not least, a bit of luck.
Important notes
1. In case the group size does not come to four, we reserve the right to raise the price.
2. Trip’s starting date is preliminary. It depends on the local helicopter flight schedule and will be fixed not later than 40 days prior to leaving for expedition.
